August 13, 2010
When Canadian group International Air Rally took 21 planes to the Bahamas for ten days, they invited Australian Pilot along for the ride. Contributor Kathy Mexted volunteered to represent us. She discovered warm hospitality, beautiful landscapes, and a few funky dance moves.
Denis twisted in his seat and called excitedly, “Kath. Look!” From the right hand seat of the Cherokee 6, he didn’t even try to conceal his excitement as the deep blue waters south of Florida turned to a twinkling turquoise around Bimini, the first of the Bahamian Islands, 50nm south east of Fort Lauderdale, Florida.
This was only the second hour of a ten day trip, run by a not-for-profit Canadian group called International Air Rally. What started as a three day fly away for the Canadian Bush Pilots Association in 2000, has now morphed to an annual event which provides pilots with flying opportunities they may not be able to pursue alone. This year’s trip to the Bahamas was the group’s first foray out of Canada, but there are already plans for next year’s event to push further down into the Caribbean. Many participants this time were six or seven year Air Rally veterans.
Rally organiser Catherine Tobenas’s love of people and culture is a strong influence in the tone of the Air Rally. Most destinations were closely coordinated with the local tourism authorities. As Bimini passed beneath us, the Bahamas exploded with spectacular bursts of blue and white, twisting and changing like featherweight silken scarves. Miami-Bimini-Nassau is 160nm, and from Nassau it was another 130nm along the picturesque chain of islands to Exuma.
Miami ATC controls most of the Bahamian airspace. Radio communications were better above 5000ft and flying over Nassau we were on Nassau flight frequency for half an hour. In this busy airspace, the ATC controller didn’t have time to draw breath. “It was wall-to-wall talk, and without a doubt, the busiest and most chaotic frequency I’ve heard in 13,000 hours of flying,” recalls Denis. Of the 58 airstrips dotted throughout the Bahamas, about half are controlled.
The Bahamas are well set up for light aircraft, and welcome more than 40,000 private flights a year. At Exuma, the Bahamian Islands Tourism Authority was friendly and helpful with tours and directing queries. Fuel and assistance were on hand, and an aircraft with a flat tire was fixed on the spot.
“We are here to promote the Bahamas as a destination, in a positive light,” the jolly young woman with the twinkly eyes told me while offering me advice on where to go on a day trip. The “Peace & Plenty” hotel, named after a ship of the same name, is located on a former slave market. There’s plenty to learn if you’re interested in history, and the tourism board treated us to a walking tour of Exuma’s capital, Georgetown. Back at base camp, welcome drinks inspired the first of the merry makers to brave an ocean dip. The holiday had begun and the beautiful Bahamas was working it’s magic. Flight planning was done by the pool.
Exuma – Haiti
Tracking 213 nm southeast for a refuelling stop on the island of Inagua, we were met by local tourism authority officials who turned out with lunch and some school children for a performance in the midday sun. One group was in school uniform, and another was in striking, sparkling, colourful show costumes they had made themselves. We loved the dancing, and the kids loved crawling around the aeroplanes. One of the young dancers announced from the comfort of a sheepskin seat “this is so comfortable I could live in here!” Our group then split up, most headed for the Dominican Republic capital of Santa Domingo, while a smaller group of five aircraft diverted to the other side of that island, Haiti.
Arrival communications for Port au Prince kick in 30nm from the field at 2,500ft. While technically the rest of the country belongs to the same air traffic controllers, there is no coverage. The tower, recently manned by the US military, is now back in Haitian hands and communication was easy. On approach, the bright blue tarps of temporary housing leapt out from their surroundings. It’s quite a busy airport with a wide range of aircraft, from American Airlines 767, Czech twin turbo props, single engines and a passing parade of US military Blackhawk helicopters.
One of the group, an American businessman, had donated two 28,000 sq ft “Cirque du Soleil” circus tents (just happened to have ‘em handy) to the earthquake relief efforts. They were still sitting in containers on the wharf, and so, in order to get them put to use, we went to meet the mayor. We met him on the tarmac that was “as hot as Haiti”, and were reassured the donated tents would be used as government facilities until rebuilding was completed. After which it’s assumed they’ll be used for community and cultural activities.
Large cracks scar the Port au Prince terminal, and much of it is still closed off. We went through customs clearance in a corridor at the top of a staircase. We took off after three hours on the ground, and were amazed by the mountains. They rose 6000ft either side as we flew up a valley, south east from Port au Prince Airport. They are stark from deforestation but eventually give way to lush green jungle. It was an absolutely beautiful flight.
Santa Domingo, Dominican Republic
The Dominican Republic (DR) shares the same landmass as Haiti, (the island of Hispaniola), but offers a choking contrast. The flight took us over two lakes, one below sea level, then up the coast past a DR Naval base. Just on dusk we landed at El Higuero, which is their general aviation airport. It was well equipped and there were lots of turbo props, hangars and activity. Communications were really good, controllers incredibly easy to understand, and procedures straight forward. The capital was no different from many large cities, but with a strong Spanish influence.
In Santo Domingo early arrivees were greeted by the Minister for Tourism. They got to relax in an air conditioned building, listen to a fantastic band and watch beautiful dancers perform. The airport officials handed then already completed arrival cards to sign, then gave everyone a cold beer.
Costanza, Dominican Republic
From the seaside port of Santo Domingo, departure was to the n/ne for a 30 minute flight across the island to pick up the Valle del Cibao, the valley which is the corridor to the Constanza Airport at 4,000 ft. Mountains either side of the valley range from 7,000ft up to 10,000ft. With sketchy cloud cover, Constanza appeared in a patch of blue revealing a 1km sealed runway ringed by hills. “Find the blue and circle down to the airport” they’d advised pre-departure, and I’m told that’s what we did. I’m not sure. I might have had my eyes shut. Constanza is the highest airport in the Caribbean, and a place about to launch itself as a tourist destination particularly geared for private flying.
As the engine wound down, I stepped out into the cool air, absorbing the stunning view, and the unexpected sounds of Simon & Garfunkle. Over in the raised flower garden, the Minister for Aviation, the Minister for Tourism, and a wide assortment of Ministers for many other things had come from Santo Domingo to promote the airport to us. They’d even bought along a band!
